The sleeve base should be 2 cm wider than the complete armhole. Each armhole on the pieces should be no more than 28 cm (measure the curve). Example: around my armhole, I have 56 cm. The measure you got is divided into 2, for a measure of the sleeve hole on the front and back piece. The armhole should be a bit loose without hanging). This is just the starting measure.Īround your armhole (if you find this hard try to measure around a loose shirt or blouse. Shape the sleeve to your taste so it fits comfortable around your arm while sewing the sleeve. Try on before hemming to adjust the length to your taste.Īround your wrist (for tight buttoned sleeves) or around your hand to be able to take on and off the garment): The narrow part of the sleeve. Add SA., so sleeve pieces should be 64 +1,5 +2 cm= 67,5 cm. Length of arm from shoulder (around elbow while bent 90 degrees) to wrist: Example: 64 cm. Example: dress should be 140 cm when finished. Add seam allowance: 2 cm = hem + 1,5 cm for shoulders. Calculate the measures you need:Īround your widest part of torso: Divide in 2. It will also most likely shrink a little, so this makes you able to wash your clothes after using them.ĭraft the pieces you need on a bit of paper. The fabric is prepped with chemicals to avoid mould or bugs during the shipping and selling process and could be stretched uneven after the weaving. Wash and iron your fabric before sewing.Seam allowance is mentioned as SA in this post. You can pick whatever measure you want between 1 cm-3 cm, just remember what you chose. How many gores? Two are enough for undergarments and knee-long kirtles, four or more will give you more width, a smoother and more even fall of fabric and more movement when walking.A too shallow armhole will make your sleeve hang, but too wide will make movement hard. The sleeve should cover your arm, the arm joint, but fit snugly under your arm (in the armpit). Don’t be afraid to cut out your armhole according to your body. When you pin/baste together long seams, such as a diagonal cut gore with a straight panel, put the gore (the diagonally cut stretchy part) under the other one, when sewing on a machine the gore will not stretch. Basting the armhole before sewing makes that seam easier to finish nicely.
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